The training is catching on in Boulder CO. It's catching on locally, in other states and internationally. I have an athlete moving to Boulder to train for 6 weeks to prepare for the World Cup in Atlanta. The concept of training climbers in a way that is Sports Specific is going to become the new standard. Even for non-pro climbers the idea of training at a climbing gym with a trainer is going to become as normal as it is at 24 hour fitness.
I feel so blessed, fortunate and remain humble for all that is happening. I'm so lucky to have made the friends here that I've made, to work with such an incredible staff at movement, to have incredible clients that make going to work an absolute joy and pleasure. They all do whatever it is I ask of them and they continue to come back! When I see my clients and my athletes give their very all and see them succeed, there is not better feeling for me as their trainer. Just the other day Ian Dory was so tired that he literally crawled across the bouldering mat to grab his chalk bag and attempt the same V6 that just put him flat on his back from 13 feet in the air. As he crawls to chalk back up and stands up to give one more attempt before time runs out I can't help but feel like I'm watching a clip from a movie. It was literally like watching Rocky getting knocked down by the Russian and seeing Rocky get up again and again! Ian wouldn't accept the thought or the feeling of failure. Absolutely incredible to watch. Or to see Jamie Emerson so tired that his push-ups are being done on his knees and he refuses to stop or rest because he's determined to succeed. When Carol Woods is dripping sweat and she looks at me after the set that she just gave her all on and I tell her "Again" and she does it again but this time she does it better!
Training is not always about who is the strongest, who looks the best or who can climb the hardest or lift the heaviest weights. It's about each individual doing their own personal best and understanding that what they just did was incredible! If you climb a V1 four times in a row and that was hard for you there is no difference then the guy next to you who did a V8 four times in a row and yelled just to finish. The V1 was your best and that's what matters! If someone runs faster then you and they are just as tired as you are when you finshed then you just achieved the same outcome as that individual.
If you are a climber, a runner, a swimming class participant, a spinning class enthusiast, a tri-athlete or whatever your sport may be... Always remember that it isn't about what others are doing or how good they are. It's about what you can accomplish within yourself and how hard YOU are willing to work for it. I will never tell someone that they can't be as good as this person or accomplish this or that. I want to train people that prove to themselves that they can do it! That with the right traaining, the right attitude and having the belief within themselves that they can accomplish the ultimate success. Go and get it guys! Don't stop and don't let anyone tell you it's not possible.
For you climbers out there here's a workout that I made for my athletes and clients. You decide how you want to set it up according to your strength and current condition. It's my "Training Camp Conditioning Routine."
Round 1: Bouldering Pyramids
* 8 climbs of V1, 4 climbs of V2, 2 Climbs of V3 this needs to be done within 30 minutes. After Each climb you do 5-10 pullups. You then go back down... 2 Climbs of V3, 4 climbs of V2, 8 climbs of V1. This needs to be done in 30 minutes and after each climb you do 5-10 push-ups.
* 2 minutes of sit-ups, with a 2 minute rest. Repeat 5 times.
* Run 2 miles
Here's some photo's of how this will look...
Here's Ian Dory working hard on his 3rd V6. He has 1 more to do.
Matty Hong working on his 2nd V7. After this he starts his next set of 2 V7's!
Geoff Engle doing a set of 10 pull-ups after his 7th V3. He's a V10 climber. Just to put in perspective how you might want to scale your climbs.
Geoff completed the 1st set in 28 minutes. He gets 2 minutes until the 2nd 30 minutes starts
Kevin killing 10 pull-ups!
Jamie Emerson topping out to head to the pull-up bar!
Olivia Ridgely loves training!
Alex is suprised to see her trainer waiting up top to ensure her pull-ups are done correctly. She crushed them!