Training and Coaching

Exciting things are happening.

With Alex Johnson, exciting things will continue to happen. Who is Alex Johnson?

She is a Pro Rock Climber; a paid athlete fully sponsored by:

The North Face
Five Ten
Organic
Native Sunglasses
Joshua Tree
Nicros

Alex has been climbing for 15 years and requested I train her for the Vail World Cup Bouldering Competition in June. Not familiar with World Cup Climbing Competitions? The way the IFSC (the international federation of climbing) determines each year’s winner is very similar to NASCAR; competitors participate in events all over the world (Spain, Germany, China, Austria, Russia to name a few) where points are distributed relative to placement, and at the end of the season the climber with the most points wins overall.

These World Cups attract the best competition climbers in the world. Alex’s goal is to win the Vail World Cup. She has competed in countless climbing competitions, done the entire World Cup series twice and is a two-time World Cup gold medalist and five-time National Champion. In a word, strong. Some might say she has what you would call ‘god given talent’. Not talent as in, ‘she was born to rock climb’, but talent in the sense of having the practice and devotion to be the best. That’s what 15 years of dedication will do. The only difference is she has never followed a planned workout. As good as she is she has barely touched her potential. As good as she is, she still has weaknesses.   

With Dave Wahl’s help and mentoring I have been able to develop a workout plan which will positively impact her future competitions. We are training 3 days a week with 2 hours per session. These workouts consist of climbing specific strength, power, endurance, conditioning, shoulder girdle and core work. Currently, the main focus is her power, lock-off strength and core work. She has remarkable muscle memory; her body responds to a new routine almost instantly. For example: 1-arm lock off. Alex attempted it once and her muscles buckled. On her second attempt, she not only completed the move, but released the hold in a controlled manner. Her work in the bouldering cave was no different-she absolutely crushes once her muscles learn to respond.  

 
Alex is a remarkable athlete and I am honored she’s asked me to train her for an event of this magnitude. The thought of her competing in Richmond, VA in a few weeks followed by the World Cup in June is nerve wracking. When she does compete, I’ll feel each move—every crimp, sloper, every pocket or pinch. I feel an intense responsibility for her success.

I love it; it makes me feel like a great, unique part of this sport.  

During the next 6 weeks I hope to show Alex a new training perspective. A perspective which will allow her to realize training is an effective tool—a catalyst through which she will finally realize her potential.